While some corset makers out there will be familiar with this term, there will be a larger number, especially amoungst the beginners, who haven’t a clue what a ‘Gore’ is. This blog post is for you.
It sounds like some sort of horror film genré but in actual fact it’s a type of corset pattern piece. Yes the ‘bust gore’ or the ‘hip gore’ are just triangular inserts of material that allow you when you make a corset, to add extra curve to the top or bottom. They were used more in the Victorian times when waists were smaller but I have seen a number of modern corset patterns with them in. If you make older corsets or are learning how to make a bodice pattern historically accurate, then it’s worth acquainting yourself with them. They can be made into a design feature or discretely incorporated into the corset design. They’re also fine to use in corset training corset sewing patterns and should not affect the strength of the corset when sewn correctly.
If you’re just starting to learn how to make a corset, I wouldn’t recommend this style of corset design simply because you don’t need the extra difficulty in your first corset sewing pattern. Corset making is complex enough for the beginner without having to work out where your spiral steel boning is going once the seam you’re following forks in two to accomodate a bust gore. I’m not saying corset making is distressingly difficult but easy to follow corset sewing patterns do help somewhat.
Anyway to clarify exactly what a bust gore looks like, heres a close-up of one of my own patterns – the Cupid Corset Pattern, which can be found on the patterns page of this website if you’d like a closer look.
Click image to enlarge
There are several ways of doing this, but my favourite beginners method is the duct tape corset pattern. You need a second person with you, a tight-fitting vest top that you are happy to cut up, scissors and a roll of duct tape. First put the vest top on over a well fitting bra, now have your friend go round and round you with the masking tape till you are covered from waist to bust – basically the area you want your corset swing pattern to cover. Now have them cut you out straight down the middle front or middle back. You can now draw on the 3D form of your body where you want the corset design to come to around the bottom and top, then draw on your pattern lines and where you want your sprung or spiral steel boning. Now cut the pieces out and transfer them to pattern paper!
Make an Elizabethan Corset – Video & Pattern
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This exquisit fully boned Elizabethan corset pattern comes with a 1 hour how-to Video that will guide you step by step through the making of your own beautiful Elizabethan bodice corset. A stunning pattern with lacing front and back it is designed for sewers who have already previously made their own basic corsets.
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When learning how to make a bodice or corset you will come across a number of corset patterns and knowing how to discern between a good shaped corset or bodice pattern is essential.
In a corset pattern the number of pattern pieces is a great way to tell if a corset is going to hug the body well, 4 pieces is a little low, 5 or more per side will give a good fit. Shape also plays a big part. If the pattern pieces are all very straight in shape the corset will not curve in at the waist enough. They should all look pinched in the middle.
For learning how to make a bodice – bodice pattern pieces will not ‘pinch’ in the middle as the Elizabethan bodice had straight sides. Instead make sure that all the edges of your pattern meet up from top to bottom.
The bodice pattern is taking shape finally. We’re nearly there – yay – I’ve just got the edges to finish off. Like with all my new corset patterns, I couldn’t resist trying it on before it’s finished, just to check the sizing is right of course! So here are some photos so you can see how its looking, the fit is just right and I can’t wait to see how the tabs look once I’ve cut them (they’re all stuck together still to avoid premature fraying) I’ll be carefully cutting them appart and edging them in a few days time. First I need a rest and some retail therapy! I think the sewing machine will appreciate a bit of a rest and some quiet time too! I’ve been filming each stage as I go, this printable corset pattern will have its own video guide and work book as its a specialist bodice pattern. So the filming has been making the whole process take a lot longer. I hate being on film too so my nerves are shot! Click on the pics for bigger versions and a closer look. The red fabric is looking amazing, its my first use of heavy weight material as I always opt for the light cottons with the colourful designs. This bodice pattern may have converted me though! The feel is so much more luxurious and the sheen it has is fantastic.
Learning how to make a corset with fully boned panels has been time consuming but worth it, I love the bone channels and the effect they give.