As promised I managed to dig out some photos of the three dimensional method of pattern drafting (as apposed to the 2D flat pattern drafting method we were discussing yesterday). I’m lucky enough to have an old school dress form thats a great starting shape for corset training corsets. I took the pattern in a little at the waist but it already has an unnaturally small waist so it was a great find – it was discarded in my art studio at university if you can believe that! I gave it a a loving home and a new lease of life. Keep meaning to cover it but it’s quite nice rough.
Anyway, moving on from my deep personal relationship with my dress forms! The pictures are pretty self explanatory – I started by marking the front centre and back centre then proceeded to drape material where I wanted pattern pieces and draw on, cut and pin in place on the dress form one by one. I then added marks to the corset pattern where the pieces joined so I could line the pieces up correctly when I joined them together. You also want to number your pattern pieces before unpinning, then transfer to paper, simples!
If you don’t have a dress form but do have a corset that you like the shape of then try stuffing it so it holds it’s shape, then using this as your mannequin. So now you know how, you can get cracking and design your own corset!
So I’ve been using the 2D method of drafting corset patterns over a bodice block, I’ve not used a bodice block before but Robert Doyle uses it in his book ‘Waisted Efforts’ so I thought I’d give it a go. The bodice block isn’t really proving very successful for any slightly diagonal pattern pieces or artistic/adventurous corset designs. I’m largely ignoring it and just using the bust, waist, hips measurements and the measurements between them.
I’m guessing it’ll work a lot better for straight up straight down pattern pieces so I might try a no fuss corset design at some point soon where all the piece are an equal width and all travel straight down the body. The design in the picture with the circles on looks like it fits this description but its actually a short version of the bigger one in the middle. As such the circles haven’t fit correctly onto the pieces so I’ll try remaking that using the bodice block.
There is another method I favour in creating corset patterns, thats the draping method which you need a dressmakers dummy for really. But if you have a corset thats the required shape you can pad it out with wadding and use that. I’ll dig out a photo of one of my draped corset training patterns tomorrow so you can see this 3 dimensional method.
Click for bigger pic!
When drafting corset patterns it can be difficult to get all the pieces to match up exactly. So if you’ve ventured into corset designing you may find todays video blog particularly useful…
Today I’ve been mostly drafting corset patterns!
Yes today and all of this week in fact, I have been very quiet because I’ve been locked away in the sewing room drafting new patterns in preparation for a new range of corset training corsets that I’ll finally be making to order. (It’s been a while!). As a result I’ve been naughty and not blogged for a while so today I got out the video camera so I could show you how I check my pattern pieces all fit together and how I get the top and bottom edges to flow nicely as one big sweeping curve.
A corset needs a beautiful top and bottom edge the way it needs a beautifully tapered waist, proper binding and steel boning. In other words a bad bust line can ruin a beautiful corset. So I thought I would share my method for making sure the edges of my corset flow smoothly.
Tomorrow I’ll do a write up with some pictures I took but for now heres the video…
Today I’m having a late spring clean. Getting the sewing room straightened out for the marathon of corset making I have planned for the next few weeks. I’m also reluctantly getting rid of the ‘extra sewing supplies’ in my tin -
So for all those curious about my little corsetry and dressmaking room here’s my spring (summer) clean before and after -
Layla likes to lounge around in the sewing room when I’m in there, getting covered in bits of thread and trying to sit on my feet when I’m operating the sewing machine. If she had thumbs I’d put her to work but as it stands her job is largely supervisory. (She has her own facebook page too – Vampire Dog on account of her big crocodile mouth!)
Another Year at Corset Training & A Few Changes To Be Made
Well it’s a few days after my 28th birthday and give it a few months Corsettraining.net will also be another year older. So it’s a time of reflection for me and as the website nears 4 years old I’d like to step things up a notch…
Corset Designers & Corsetry Knowledge
There are a wealth of individual corset makers out there and the web gives us a chance to interact with each other across the globe; sharing ideas and solving corset construction issues. I’ve seen a lot of this on facebook as the Corset Making facebook group expands. I’d like to feature more work by the web’s corset designers and share more of the results of our online knowledge swapping on this blog.
HowToMakeACorset YouTube Channel
Another exciting development will be video blog posting. I have a camera and tripod set up in my sewing room now so I’ll be keeping a video diary of my projects and doing a few how-to’s here and there. Currently I’m editing the eyelet setting video to go with the eyelet tutorial pictures here, and another on binding bodice pattern tabs from this corset -
I hope to make a few of these video posts a week once I’ve gotten used to the technology! I’ll be hosting them on You Tube so keep an eye on my channel HowToMakeACorset but I’ll also do a blog post for each one so you can keep up to date with everything going on by following this blog.
I’m also going to start making corsets to order again soon. I’ve taken a long break from corset-making-to-order as it were, concentrating on how to make corsets educational materials and the printable corset patterns range. I’d like to get back to creating corsets for people to wear and enjoy alongside teaching the art of construction. I’ll be sewing up some example pieces to be photographed over the next month so that should keep me very busy and give me lots to video blog about! All very exciting!
The Corset Belt Sew-Along
Lastly I’m finally getting round to doing the video sew-along for the waist corset – you can download the free corset pattern here. It’ll be set over a few days so beginners can sew along for around an hour a day over 3 – 5 days. It’ll be a great gentle introduction for all the corset making virgins out there and hopefully a great social experience for our little corset sewing community.
So I look forward to sewing more and sharing more with you over the coming months!