So it’s all sewn together now, the corset pattern looks pretty good shape wise, but I’ll have to wait till later to try it on as I have a fair bit to do today and I need to find my lacing tape so I can give it a proper try on.
Handy hint – get some lacing tape for your mock-ups – it comes as a strip of sturdy cotton tape (sometimes petersham) with eyelets pre-set. When you make a corset mock up sew it on the back to allow you to lace the whole thing up and try the fit properly. It only takes two quick lines of stitching to attach, then afterward rip it off to use on the next mock up! So you only need ever buy 1 meter! Cut it in half and when you sew onto your mock ups don’t trim it, just leave the extra length hanging at the bottom. This ensures it will always be long enough for all your mock ups.
Anyway, here are the photos of the mock-up all sewn together and some pics of how I pin and sew the pattern pieces. I’ll update you when I’ve tried it on and if I alter the corset pattern, then again when I start to make a corset from it.
First four pattern pieces sewn together
Corset Pattern done! – Bust area
Corset Pattern done! - Two bottom edge options
OK so I’m sewing these together later but I thought I’d put up some pictures of the corset pattern pieces before I do so you can see them properly. This is what I’ve got up to so far and as you can see it’s a seven piece corset pattern, so 14 pieces in total. This is going to be a nice sturdy corset training pattern. I’ve been meaning to design something nice and shapely but comfortable to wear underneath my cloths on a daily basis. I’m terribly inconsistent when it comes to corset training and haven’t really bothered for a while now. It’s an overbust design but when I get the mockup on I’ll draw in an underbust line.
I’m using coutil for this mock up incase you’re wondering what fabric it is, but only because I bought some that turned out to be of a nasty quality not fit to make a corset from but couldn’t be bothered to send it back!
So I’ve been away from the sewing machine for a while and upon my return I decided to make a corset in black with racy red stitching. I thought you’d want to see the new corset pattern so I took some piccys and filmed a quick video blog. It’s a single layer 24 inch corset belt with 22 bones plus 4 round the lacing and I’ll be selling it in my etsy shop to raise money for the camera I’ll need to record high quality video for future sewing videos (more on that soon). So here are the vid and pics of it with just the last of the binding to put on. Finished pics tomorrow! xxx
Click for bigger pics
As promised I managed to dig out some photos of the three dimensional method of pattern drafting (as apposed to the 2D flat pattern drafting method we were discussing yesterday). I’m lucky enough to have an old school dress form thats a great starting shape for corset training corsets. I took the pattern in a little at the waist but it already has an unnaturally small waist so it was a great find – it was discarded in my art studio at university if you can believe that! I gave it a a loving home and a new lease of life. Keep meaning to cover it but it’s quite nice rough.
Anyway, moving on from my deep personal relationship with my dress forms! The pictures are pretty self explanatory – I started by marking the front centre and back centre then proceeded to drape material where I wanted pattern pieces and draw on, cut and pin in place on the dress form one by one. I then added marks to the corset pattern where the pieces joined so I could line the pieces up correctly when I joined them together. You also want to number your pattern pieces before unpinning, then transfer to paper, simples!
If you don’t have a dress form but do have a corset that you like the shape of then try stuffing it so it holds it’s shape, then using this as your mannequin. So now you know how, you can get cracking and design your own corset!
So I’ve been using the 2D method of drafting corset patterns over a bodice block, I’ve not used a bodice block before but Robert Doyle uses it in his book ‘Waisted Efforts’ so I thought I’d give it a go. The bodice block isn’t really proving very successful for any slightly diagonal pattern pieces or artistic/adventurous corset designs. I’m largely ignoring it and just using the bust, waist, hips measurements and the measurements between them.
I’m guessing it’ll work a lot better for straight up straight down pattern pieces so I might try a no fuss corset design at some point soon where all the piece are an equal width and all travel straight down the body. The design in the picture with the circles on looks like it fits this description but its actually a short version of the bigger one in the middle. As such the circles haven’t fit correctly onto the pieces so I’ll try remaking that using the bodice block.
There is another method I favour in creating corset patterns, thats the draping method which you need a dressmakers dummy for really. But if you have a corset thats the required shape you can pad it out with wadding and use that. I’ll dig out a photo of one of my draped corset training patterns tomorrow so you can see this 3 dimensional method.
Click for bigger pic!